How to Light a Smoker (and how to keep it burning for the entire inspection)
The practice of using smoke to calm bees is not a new one. Take a quick trip to google and search „antique bee smoker‟, it will net you a good look at smokers from yesteryear. Interestingly enough a search on the same popular web site will get you almost as many opinions (and videos) on not only how to light, but also how to keep a smoker burning. Some of these nuggets of information are based on solid experience, some are merely an attempt to get that “15 minutes of fame” on the latest social exposure venue.
After watching enough of these wonderful trinkets of what some would call a good waste of a fine camcorder; I was left with some answers, but probably even more confusion. So, I decided to do what many a good scholar before has done, “seek wise counsel.” I asked… Not just anyone either, I asked someone who has lit a smokers for years and has probably used as many different smokers as I found videos for, Jeff Maddox. Hopefully, I can impart some of what this wise individual taught me, dotted with a bit of my own experiences for your enjoyment. Then with this shared knowledge and a bit of practice the new beekeepers out there should experience far less frustration than I did my first spring. Lets just say, by June that year the slightly pricy “Bee-Z-Smoker” I kept seeing in the catalogs was looking pretty enticing... But I didn't give up and after some good advice from Jeff, I finally mastered the smoker.
After watching enough of these wonderful trinkets of what some would call a good waste of a fine camcorder; I was left with some answers, but probably even more confusion. So, I decided to do what many a good scholar before has done, “seek wise counsel.” I asked… Not just anyone either, I asked someone who has lit a smokers for years and has probably used as many different smokers as I found videos for, Jeff Maddox. Hopefully, I can impart some of what this wise individual taught me, dotted with a bit of my own experiences for your enjoyment. Then with this shared knowledge and a bit of practice the new beekeepers out there should experience far less frustration than I did my first spring. Lets just say, by June that year the slightly pricy “Bee-Z-Smoker” I kept seeing in the catalogs was looking pretty enticing... But I didn't give up and after some good advice from Jeff, I finally mastered the smoker.
Now, as a new beekeeper, you must first understand that fuel is the most crucial element in using a smoker. After much experience, I feel that pine needles make the best fuel. Or wait was it the rolled up cardboard? Hmmmm, maybe it is that old Sunday paper. No, it had to be that burlap sack… Come to think of it that mulch from my flowerbeds worked great too! No, I think that ole “punky” wood from the creek worked the best. Oh yeah, and the hay from the round bale next to my hive (that is also creating a wind block) was perfect in a pinch. Ok, by now you can see that I prefer pretty much anything that burns, the cheaper the better. I have lit it all on fire and after some practice, I think I can get most anything to make that cool billowy smoke that calms those girls down to a gentle hum. Some fuels seem to burn up faster and some slower, the big key here is no matter what fuel you use, have lots of it.
Start by wadding up a piece of paper (any kind will do, but I like free the best) or use some burlap, or maybe an old sock. Whatever you use, light it and once it gets going a bit, put it into the smoker. For those of you that worry about getting burned, go buy one of those grill or candle lighters (you know the really long kind) and put the starter material in the smoker first, then light it. To start things off you don't need too much material yet, just enough to make fire. Pump the bellows a few times to help get it going. Once it is well lit, put just a bit of your favorite fuel in. How much will depend greatly on how quickly it burns. For pine needles… start stuffing!!! Keep pumping the bellows as you go, enough to help get that new fuel lit.
Cool billowy smoke really is the key and just before you head to the hive, you will want to be sure that smoker is puffing out lots of it. Here is how to get it: from before, no matter what you decide on for fuel, have plenty of it (and if possible take some extra in a bucket with you to the bee yard). Nothing is frustrating like running out in the middle of an inspection, or worse, before you get your smoker fully going.
Next, once you get the fuel of choice started burning, start packing it in. No, really, pack it in. Did I say pack it in, I mean, pack it in! But don‟t forget to puff the bellows every now and then as you go. Your hive tool will work nicely for packing the fuel (using your fingers is probably not the best idea unless you are wearing Nomex gloves). My first “rookie” mistake was barely putting in enough fuel in to get through the first hive. The other problem with not putting enough fuel in is that the smoke that you create will not be “cool”. You will soon be puffing out hot embers with your smoke. Trust me on this; just as cool smoke calms the bees, those hot embers will really get them fired up. Literally! If there is one sure way to get those girls mad at you, blow some hot embers from your smoker at them. Let‟s just say, if you make this unforgettable mistake, you‟ll think your hive has been taken over by Africanized bees. So when I say, pack your smoker, I mean pack your smoker! Pack it full, and pack it tight!!! I have found with a few strokes on the bellows as you are packing fuel, it is almost impossible to put the smoker out.
Start by wadding up a piece of paper (any kind will do, but I like free the best) or use some burlap, or maybe an old sock. Whatever you use, light it and once it gets going a bit, put it into the smoker. For those of you that worry about getting burned, go buy one of those grill or candle lighters (you know the really long kind) and put the starter material in the smoker first, then light it. To start things off you don't need too much material yet, just enough to make fire. Pump the bellows a few times to help get it going. Once it is well lit, put just a bit of your favorite fuel in. How much will depend greatly on how quickly it burns. For pine needles… start stuffing!!! Keep pumping the bellows as you go, enough to help get that new fuel lit.
Cool billowy smoke really is the key and just before you head to the hive, you will want to be sure that smoker is puffing out lots of it. Here is how to get it: from before, no matter what you decide on for fuel, have plenty of it (and if possible take some extra in a bucket with you to the bee yard). Nothing is frustrating like running out in the middle of an inspection, or worse, before you get your smoker fully going.
Next, once you get the fuel of choice started burning, start packing it in. No, really, pack it in. Did I say pack it in, I mean, pack it in! But don‟t forget to puff the bellows every now and then as you go. Your hive tool will work nicely for packing the fuel (using your fingers is probably not the best idea unless you are wearing Nomex gloves). My first “rookie” mistake was barely putting in enough fuel in to get through the first hive. The other problem with not putting enough fuel in is that the smoke that you create will not be “cool”. You will soon be puffing out hot embers with your smoke. Trust me on this; just as cool smoke calms the bees, those hot embers will really get them fired up. Literally! If there is one sure way to get those girls mad at you, blow some hot embers from your smoker at them. Let‟s just say, if you make this unforgettable mistake, you‟ll think your hive has been taken over by Africanized bees. So when I say, pack your smoker, I mean pack your smoker! Pack it full, and pack it tight!!! I have found with a few strokes on the bellows as you are packing fuel, it is almost impossible to put the smoker out.
Even if you are only inspecting one hive, pack it full to the top. Here is why, you are essentially trying to create a smoldering fire at the bottom of the smoker. Hence the reason for the air space at the bottom of the smoker which your fuel sits on. Now as a beginner you will always take longer than you think (and you should take your time) examining hives. The best way besides smoke to keep your bees calm is to calm yourself and don't be in a hurry. Learned that the hard way too… So, take your time examining your hive, be gentle, make fluid motions. Now I am not saying take a sack lunch and camp out next to your open hive; but having a packed full smoker will help your confidence in knowing that you can take your time, not get in a hurry and not squish any bees (especially your queen). With your smoker nearby and ready should you need a quick puff to send them back down off the tops of the frames. As you gain experience and confidence you can get to where you pack less fuel in the smoker.
Once you are puffing that billowy white cloud like smoke from a packed full smoker close the lid of the smoker and give a few more strokes on the bellows. You should have a solid plume of smoke each time you stroke the bellows, followed by the white billowy smoke you see in the first picture. Once you have this take a quick visual to see that as you stroke the bellows no hot embers are ejected from the smoker chimney (or nozzle). If you see no hot embers, test the smoke with your hand for temperature about 8 to 12 inches from the chimney. The billowy smoke should feel almost no different than the surrounding air, and a stroke on the bellows should produce smoke only slightly warmer. You should be able to keep your hand in the smoke through the entire stroke of the bellows. If the smoke is too hot then you will also be burning your bees when you blow smoke in the hive and this will make the little ladies very cross. If you have followed the steps and packed the smoker tight you should feel cool or only slightly warm smoke. If not, pack some more fuel in, you have most likely burned up to the top of your burning fuel (again your hive tool works great for packing).
Once you are puffing that billowy white cloud like smoke from a packed full smoker close the lid of the smoker and give a few more strokes on the bellows. You should have a solid plume of smoke each time you stroke the bellows, followed by the white billowy smoke you see in the first picture. Once you have this take a quick visual to see that as you stroke the bellows no hot embers are ejected from the smoker chimney (or nozzle). If you see no hot embers, test the smoke with your hand for temperature about 8 to 12 inches from the chimney. The billowy smoke should feel almost no different than the surrounding air, and a stroke on the bellows should produce smoke only slightly warmer. You should be able to keep your hand in the smoke through the entire stroke of the bellows. If the smoke is too hot then you will also be burning your bees when you blow smoke in the hive and this will make the little ladies very cross. If you have followed the steps and packed the smoker tight you should feel cool or only slightly warm smoke. If not, pack some more fuel in, you have most likely burned up to the top of your burning fuel (again your hive tool works great for packing).
Once you have that smoldering smoker with cool white smoke, it is time to head to the hive. Use the smoker sparingly, it is not necessary to cloud the entire bee yard in a thick fog while you are inspecting. Allow the prevailing wind to drift the smoke onto the bees. As you are approaching the hive, stroke the bellows aiming a couple of long puffs at the hive entrance from a distance of about 2 feet. Think of this as your “warning shot across the bow”. This initial cloud of smoke will confuse the guard bees and should send most of the bees hanging out at the entrance back into the hive. Let this settle in with them for a minute before touching the hive. Remember, honey bees are very sensitive to vibration and as soon as you touch the hive they will know it, even before taking the outer cover off. So it is best to let the confusion settle in and the smell of smoke begin to mask their communication pheromones.
Next, think of opening your hive like taking the layers off a cake. Once you begin to open the hive, give a long puff at the gap as you crack open each of the “layers”. Insert your hive tool crack the inner cover (layer 1) then give a puff. Gently pull off the inner cover and then give another puff after you remove this layer. This will send the bees back down into the frames and off the tops. Continue this “puff, remove, puff” process as you work your way down into the hive. Each time you crack two layers apart puff, remove the top layer set aside and puff. During the inspection, I find doing one of two things with the smoker helpful. If you are lucky enough to have a smoker with a smoker guard (pictured left) the hook makes a nice way to hang your smoker on the side of an open hive body as you remove frames. Hang it on the upwind side and then remove frames from the downwind side (as long as that is not the same side as the entrance). This helps by allowing smoke to gently continue to drift over the bees, keeping them calm and your scent masked by the smoke blowing at you. If you don't have a smoker guard, or you don‟t like hanging your smoker on the hive, simply set it at the entrance to the hive and allow the prevailing wind to gently drift smoke into or across the hive entrance.
By using smoke sparingly and packing the smoker full you should easily have enough fuel to last the entire visit to most bee yards. If however, your smoker does seem to be producing less smoke, grab a few handfuls of that extra fuel you brought out to the bee yard and pack some in. Happy smoking!!
Next, think of opening your hive like taking the layers off a cake. Once you begin to open the hive, give a long puff at the gap as you crack open each of the “layers”. Insert your hive tool crack the inner cover (layer 1) then give a puff. Gently pull off the inner cover and then give another puff after you remove this layer. This will send the bees back down into the frames and off the tops. Continue this “puff, remove, puff” process as you work your way down into the hive. Each time you crack two layers apart puff, remove the top layer set aside and puff. During the inspection, I find doing one of two things with the smoker helpful. If you are lucky enough to have a smoker with a smoker guard (pictured left) the hook makes a nice way to hang your smoker on the side of an open hive body as you remove frames. Hang it on the upwind side and then remove frames from the downwind side (as long as that is not the same side as the entrance). This helps by allowing smoke to gently continue to drift over the bees, keeping them calm and your scent masked by the smoke blowing at you. If you don't have a smoker guard, or you don‟t like hanging your smoker on the hive, simply set it at the entrance to the hive and allow the prevailing wind to gently drift smoke into or across the hive entrance.
By using smoke sparingly and packing the smoker full you should easily have enough fuel to last the entire visit to most bee yards. If however, your smoker does seem to be producing less smoke, grab a few handfuls of that extra fuel you brought out to the bee yard and pack some in. Happy smoking!!
